Topic: tomc - a question re tie plates for 10-12 pound rail

[tomc]

Michael,

When we got our first load of 8lb rail it had a lot of unwanted bends.  Jack had a nice maple tree with a branch off the main trunk that made a nice V that he inserted the rail into and then pushed and pulled the rail till it took the curves and kinks out.  It was tiring but quick.  Up and down bends were harder as they hardly ever got real straight.  A hydraulic press may be the thing to use and clamp in and bend as necessary if you don't have a nice tree.

Tom C.

[garrattguy]

Hi Folks,
I have another question relating to the use of 10lb rail. When faced with used rail that is kinked or over-bent for curves, how do you straighten it out? If it is just one piece I am sure it can be done in a vice but we have nominally four thousand feet of variable quality rail to deal with. I can see easily several dozen rails to attend to. This is 2" high rolled FB rail.
All suggestions welcome.

Michael Guy
Toronto.

[MikeD]

Mike,  you are to neat with your ties for a tramway.  drop the spacer and just eyeball.

Tom C.

Don't worry, Tom....the spacer's just for a start.  I close 'em up a little at the joints, so they don't stay that way 

Anyway....here's what I mostly worked on this summer.  Now, Momma's got a deck and I've got a Depot Platform 

[tomc]

Mike,  you are to neat with your ties for a tramway.  drop the spacer and just eyeball.

Tom C.

[Ferd]

Thanks - that helps - Since I only model narrow gauge I no longer need to worry about tie plates.
cheers Ferd

[MikeD]

HI Mike
No problem with the rail shifting on the ties. Mainly in outside corners?

cheers Ferd

Hi Ferd:

No....like Tom said, the spikes keep the rail in gauge.  That's really all they do, all they really are is square nails.  They don't hold the rail down.  Tie plates on the mainline keep the rails from cutting the ties when they move lengthways from temperature expansion and contraction.  The forces on mainline rail are lots bigger than we get, and the light rail is considerably stiffer sideways than heavy rail.  You ought to see loose "ribbon rail" snaking around in the hot sun    If you want to model mainline track, then you need to use tieplates, if not, then you don't really need tie plates.

Here's a shot of my 7-1/2" gauge track with washer headed screws in place of spikes.  I bring the screws down to touch the rail base, and then loosen them part of a turn.  That way, they keep the rail in gauge, but don't bind the tie up to the rail.  The aluminum changes length lots more than steel, and I'd rather not have it trying to push the ties around.

[tomc]

Russ,
12 # will flex with the heat but the tie should move and the gauge shouldn't change if the spikes/screws are tight to the base. If you have a frost problem it may heave a tie or two and that could lead to a rail cutting into the tie.  We don't see it in Michigan and the R&GN was in Wisconsin where if freezes also.  Some track leveling in the spring should take care of that if it is a problem.  Where/what will be the use for 12#?

Tom C.

[Ferd]

HI Mike
No problem with the rail shifting on the ties. Mainly in outside corners?

cheers Ferd

[MikeD]

Hi Russ:

We didn't use tie plates at the R&GN Ry. either.  The ties will rot out before the rail will cut them.  It ain't like on the mainline 

Mike

[russ]

Thanks, Tom

Very helpful!

Russ

[tomc]

Russ,

No tie plates for us.  Just lag bolts with a washer.  Not sure of the size any more.  Believe 5/16 or 3/8s.  Full size Maine 2 footers didn't use tie plates so Jack doesn't.  Saves on cost and it doesn't make any difference to tie life as far as we can tell.

Tom C.

[russ]

tomc:

At the SR&RL how do you attach your 10-12 pound rail to your ties ... do you use tie plates? .. if so, where do you get them or how do you make them?

We have some rail this size that we want to use.

Russ