Topic: milling coupling rods

[mcbride14medico]

That book is really fantastic!!!!! and this pictures are really good.

[locodan]

Hi Dennis,
To round the ends I have used a  rotery file or carbide bur made for a die grinder. The teeth are less agresive than a standard milling cutter so a slip is not as dangerous to the operator. I now have a die filler so I mounted a slide so I can feed this type of work with a calibrated screw and a normal flat file does the work.
Cheers Dan

[Ferd]

Hi Dennis
That is one trip I still haven't done. We are hoping to take the train out west with the kids one of these years. Maybe when I have a (7.5" loco) we will have a reason to drive out. In Ontario and Quebec we run 7.25" and as soon as you head west its all 7.5" gauge. I am planning on a 7.25/7.5" dual gauge Shay one of these years. The frustrating aspect is always trying to find time to build trains.

[locomate]

Thanks, Ferd

You're a star. (Not Eurostar!)

That book looks fantastic, I'll try and get hold of a copy.

By the way, just thought you might be interested in a couple of pictures my wife took of a rather splendid loco on static display in Jasper. A couple of years ago we had a wonderful holiday in Canada, which took in a trip on the Rocky Mountaineer from Jasper to Vancouver. The loco is a Mountain class U-1-A, built by the Canadian Locomotive Company in 1923. (thats me at the front end!)

Cheers, Dennis

[Ferd]

Hi Dennis
Here is the book - it is one of four that Kozo has done - even if you are not building the engines they are so well illustrated I find myself going through them for set up ideas etc..
"THE PENNSYLVANIA A3 SWITCHER By Kozo Hiraoka "   - there is always one on eBay as an as example search for auction # 380021037014 -  they are also sold through Live Steam Magazine as they were published by Village Press.

With the radiusing the ends by rotating them against the end mill the key would be to rough cut by either drilling or other means and removing as much material as possible and keeping the bushing as close a fit as possible so there is no backlash against the end mill. The bolt allows you to tighten as much as needed so you can control the side rod while guiding it.
cheers

[locomate]

Thanks Ferd,

I've not heard of Kozo! (something missing in my education department). Maybe I should get a copy of his book, What is the name of it, please?

LBSC has used the method of radiusing the ends by rotating the rod by hand against an end mill. Sounds a bit dodgy to me but probably ok, if you take a very light cut.

See you

Dennis

[Ferd]

Hi Dennis
I use Kozo's method - making a jig that holds the rods in place using the bosses, then profiling in the mill. The jig also allows you to profile the outside of the boss's by turning the rod by hand against the mill.  It is very well illustrated in his A3 book - I can try to add more details if needed.
cheers Ferd

[locomate]

Chaps!   . . . What kind of milling cutter is best to use for profiling coupling rods and also reducing the thickness between the bosses? Is it better to use the vertical mill or the lathe for this job? Obviously in this scale the rods will be quite thin and so what's the best way to hold them for machining?

Locomate (alias Dennis) (from UK)